Ditch the Cables: Why a Jump Starter Box is Your Lifesaver
NaTasha Brand • September 8, 2025
In the battle against dead batteries, it’s better to bring a power pack to a cable fight.

Let's paint a familiar West Texas picture. You're leaving the H-E-B on Bryant Blvd, your arms full of groceries, the San Angelo sun beating down. You turn the key and... click-click-click-click. Nothing. That dreaded, soul-crushing sound of a dead battery.
Your heart sinks. Now, you have two options: The ancient ritual of fumbling with jumper cables, hoping a benevolent stranger with a correctly aligned vehicle and the patience of a saint will stop. Or, you can reach into your trunk for a modern marvel: the jump starter box.
One of these options belongs in 2025. The other belongs in a museum next to the eight-track player. Let's break down why, for San Angelo drivers, the jump starter box isn't just better, it's a game-changer.
The Contenders: A Tale of Two Technologies
Jumper Cables:
The classic. Essentially two thick, heavy gauge wires with alligator clips on each end. Their function is simple: they act as a conduit, siphoning power from a donor vehicle's healthy battery to your dead one. It's a transfusion, requiring a second, running car to act as the donor. The process involves precarious positioning, a mini-lesson in positive/negative terminal identification, and a silent prayer that you don't cause an electrical surge that fries your ECU.
The Jump Starter Box (or Portable Power Pack):
The new champion. This is a compact, lithium-ion power bank designed specifically for jump-starting cars. It contains a high-capacity battery, a set of smart clamps, and often a suite of bonus features like USB ports for charging phones, LED flashlights, and even air compressors. Its function is autonomous power. It doesn't need another car. It is the other car.
Why the Jump Starter Box is the Undisputed Winner
While jumper cables get the job done (on a good day), a jump starter box does it better, safer, and smarter. Here’s why it’s the essential piece of kit for every vehicle in San Angelo, from a downtown commuter to a ranch truck out in Christoval:
- The Glorious Gift of Independence: This is the big one. With a jump starter box, you are an island of self-sufficiency. No more waiting, no more awkwardly flagging down strangers in the Lowe's parking lot. Your rescue is sitting in your trunk, fully charged. This is especially crucial if your battery dies somewhere remote, like after a day out at O.C. Fisher Lake, where finding a "donor car" might be impossible.
- It’s Safer. Full Stop. Jumper cables are a recipe for potential disaster: reversed polarity, sparking near battery fumes, and voltage spikes that can wreak havoc on your car's sensitive computer systems. Modern jump starter boxes are packed with safety features: reverse polarity protection, spark-proof technology, and short-circuit protection. They are, for lack of a better term, idiot-proof. They simply won't work if you connect them wrong.
- Convenience is King: A jump starter box is all-in-one. It’s lightweight, often smaller than a textbook, and stores easily. Compare that to a tangled, dirty, heavy set of cables you have to dig out from under your spare tire. Plus, the added features like the flashlight are a godsend for dealing with a dead battery after the sun has set over Goodfellow Air Force Base.
- It’s Not Just for Cars: The versatility is a huge win. The USB ports can charge your phone, tablet, or any other device. That means even if your jump fails (which it likely won't), you still have a way to call for help. It’s a multi-tool for the digital age.
But What If the Box Fails? You Call the Pros.
A jump starter box is for emergencies, but a repeatedly dead battery is a symptom of a larger problem. It could be a failing battery, a bad alternator, or a parasitic drain. That’s where you need a professional diagnosis.
For all of us in San Angelo, the answer is clear: Ric Henry’s Auto Service. When your emergency jump-starter gets you going, bring your car to Ric Henry’s for a comprehensive check-up. Their experienced technicians use the same advanced tools and equipment as the dealership to pinpoint the exact cause of your battery issues. Plus, they back all their work with a solid 3-year/36,000-mile warranty, so you can drive with confidence across West Texas knowing the problem is truly fixed.
Think of it this way: a jump starter box is your brilliant first line of defense, and Ric Henry’s is your elite specialist ensuring the problem doesn’t happen again.
So, do yourself a favor. Retire those jumper cables to the garage wall as a monument to automotive struggles past. Invest in a jump starter box. It’s the difference between being a roadside damsel in distress and the hero of your own story.


Let’s talk about the most misunderstood fluid in your vehicle. No, not the blinker fluid (though we’ve heard that one). It’s your coolant. That vibrant liquid sloshing in your radiator isn’t just “anti-freeze.” It’s a meticulously engineered chemical cocktail, a modern marvel of corrosion inhibition tasked with a Herculean job: protecting your engine’s metallic innards from turning into a costly pile of rust and scale, all while battling the brutal Texas heat. Gone are the days of a simple green ethylene glycol mix. Today’s coolants are a saga of chemistry, and the heroes of this story are corrosion inhibitors: Silicates, Phosphates, and Organic Acids (OAT). Think of them as your engine’s personal anti-rust security detail. The Cast of Chemical Characters: Silicates: The rapid-response team. These compounds form a near-instant, thin protective film on aluminum surfaces. Critical for protecting modern aluminum heads and radiator tanks from corrosive pitting. They’re fast but can be a bit overzealous, sometimes depleting quickly or forming gel-like deposits if not balanced correctly. Phosphates: The foundation builders. Excellent for protecting iron and steel components (think block liners, water pump sleeves). They create a stable protective layer. However, in water with high mineral content (hard water, which we certainly see in West Texas), they can precipitate out and form scale—akin to radiator kidney stones. Organic Acids (OAT): The long-term strategists. Developed for extended-life formulas, OAT compounds work differently. They don’t coat everything preemptively; instead, they remain in solution and only spring into action at sites of actual corrosion, neutralizing the attack. This allows for longer service intervals but requires different metallurgy to be fully effective. The Evolution: From One-Size-Fits-All to a Tailored Suit. The history of coolant is an arms race against corrosion. Early formulas were often silicate and phosphate-heavy. Then, as aluminum became king and global manufacturers sought longer drain intervals, technology splintered. You got OAT-based coolants (common in GM, some Fords), Phosphate-Hybrid OAT (often Honda, Toyota), and Silicate-Hybrid OAT (many Fords, Chrysler, and European specs). The critical takeaway? Your modern vehicle’s cooling system is designed for a specific type of coolant chemistry. Using the wrong one, like pouring an Asian-specific formula into a European car, or vice-versa—can lead to inadequate protection or harmful deposits. It’s not just about color; it’s about the recipe. Symptoms to Watch For: Your Coolant’s Cry for Help In the San Angelo heat, your cooling system works overtime. Stay vigilant for: Discolored Coolant: It should be bright and clear (green, orange, yellow, red, blue). If it’s murky brown, rusty, or has an oily sheen, the inhibitors are exhausted or contamination is present. Visible Sediment or Scale: Grit in the radiator neck or reservoir is a major red flag. Overheating: Often the final act of a system hampered by internal scale or clogged passages. Frequent Low Coolant Levels: (With no visible external leak) Could point to internal corrosion eating away at gaskets or components. Why This Demands a Shop That Evolved with the Science (Like Ours) You can’t properly service a 2020s computer-on-wheels with 1990s knowledge. Coolant service is no longer a “drain and fill.” It requires: 1. Knowledge of the precise OEM specification for your make, model, and year. 2. The Right Tools & Chemistry: We use the same professional-grade diagnostic tools, flush equipment, and approved chemicals the dealerships do. 3. Expertise to correctly diagnose if corrosion has already begun its silent work. At Ric Henry's Auto Service in San Angelo, we’ve evolved right alongside these fluid technologies. Our experienced technicians don’t just change coolant; we perform a comprehensive cooling system service: inspection, testing, correct fluid selection, and a proper exchange. We handle everything from minor fixes to major overhauls, backing all our work with a strong 3-year/36,000-mile warranty for your peace of mind. So, trust the chemical guardians in your coolant. And when it’s time for service, trust your car to the experienced hands at Ric Henry’s Auto Service. After all, in the battle against West Texas heat and metallic decay, you want a pit crew that speaks fluent chemistry.




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