Blinking vs. The Glaring "Check Engine" Light

NaTasha Brand • February 2, 2026

Decoding the Dashboard

Let’s talk about that heart-sinking moment in San Angelo. You’re cruising down Knickerbocker or heading out toward the lake, and bam, there it is. The ominous, amber glow of the “Check Engine” light. Your stomach does a little flip. But then, the real question: Is it a steady, patient stare, or a frantic, panicked blink? Understanding this difference isn’t just car knowledge; it’s an essential survival skill for West Texas drivers.

The Steady Glare: Your Car’s Polite (But Insistent) Warning
Think of a solid “Check Engine” light as your vehicle clearing its throat. ”Ahem. Excuse me. When you have a moment, something needs your attention.” It’s indicating a non-critical fault. Common culprits here in San Angelo might be a loose gas cap (our dusty winds can play tricks), a tired oxygen sensor, or a minor emissions hiccup. While you shouldn’t ignore this for weeks, it can hurt fuel economy and lead to bigger issues, you usually have the luxury of planning. You can drive home, to work, or directly to your trusted mechanic. It’s a warning, not a warrant.

The Panicked Blink: Your Car’s Cry for Help – STOP!
Now, a flashing “Check Engine” light is a whole different beast. This is your car screaming, potentially with its hands in the air. ”PULL OVER! I’M BEGGING YOU!” This almost always signals a severe engine misfire, unburned fuel is being dumped into the exhaust system. This isn’t just bad for performance; it can literally melt your expensive catalytic converter in minutes, turning a potentially manageable repair into a four-figure catastrophe.
If that light is flashing, especially under acceleration on Highway 87 or 277, your mission is simple:
  1. Reduce load immediately. Ease off the gas.
  2. Find a safe place to stop.
  3. Call a tow truck. This is not a drill, and it’s not a suggestion. Driving with a flashing CEL is an open invitation for financial pain.
Why Your San Angelo Shop Choice Matters More Than Ever
This is where the plot thickens. Modern cars, from trusty trucks to sleek sedans, are rolling supercomputers. Diagnosing that blinking or solid light isn’t about guesswork; it’s about sophisticated scan tools, proprietary software access, and technicians who are more like IT specialists with wrenches.

You need a shop that speaks your car’s digital language fluently. That’s where a hometown staple like Ric Henry’s Auto Service stands apart. We haven’t just watched the automotive industry evolve; we’ve sprinted alongside it. Our experienced technicians are equipped with the same advanced tools and equipment the dealerships use, allowing us to accurately diagnose the root cause, whether it’s a fleeting glitch or a critical failure.

We offer comprehensive auto repair services, from the minor fixes that trigger a solid light to the major overhauls a flashing light might necessitate. Plus, we back our work with a robust 3-year/36,000-mile warranty on all services, a testament to our confidence and your peace of mind. And while we’re solving your “Check Engine” drama, remember we’re your one-stop for all other system maintenance, too.

So, the next time that dashboard icon lights up, you’ll know what it means. And when you need answers, you’ll know where to go. 

Trust your car, and your wallet, in the capable hands of Ric Henry’s Auto Service.


Blinking vs. The Glaring "Check Engine" Light
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Let’s talk about the most misunderstood fluid in your vehicle. No, not the blinker fluid (though we’ve heard that one). It’s your coolant. That vibrant liquid sloshing in your radiator isn’t just “anti-freeze.” It’s a meticulously engineered chemical cocktail, a modern marvel of corrosion inhibition tasked with a Herculean job: protecting your engine’s metallic innards from turning into a costly pile of rust and scale, all while battling the brutal Texas heat. Gone are the days of a simple green ethylene glycol mix. Today’s coolants are a saga of chemistry, and the heroes of this story are corrosion inhibitors: Silicates, Phosphates, and Organic Acids (OAT). Think of them as your engine’s personal anti-rust security detail. The Cast of Chemical Characters: Silicates: The rapid-response team. These compounds form a near-instant, thin protective film on aluminum surfaces. Critical for protecting modern aluminum heads and radiator tanks from corrosive pitting. They’re fast but can be a bit overzealous, sometimes depleting quickly or forming gel-like deposits if not balanced correctly. Phosphates: The foundation builders. Excellent for protecting iron and steel components (think block liners, water pump sleeves). They create a stable protective layer. However, in water with high mineral content (hard water, which we certainly see in West Texas), they can precipitate out and form scale—akin to radiator kidney stones. Organic Acids (OAT): The long-term strategists. Developed for extended-life formulas, OAT compounds work differently. They don’t coat everything preemptively; instead, they remain in solution and only spring into action at sites of actual corrosion, neutralizing the attack. This allows for longer service intervals but requires different metallurgy to be fully effective. The Evolution: From One-Size-Fits-All to a Tailored Suit. The history of coolant is an arms race against corrosion. Early formulas were often silicate and phosphate-heavy. Then, as aluminum became king and global manufacturers sought longer drain intervals, technology splintered. You got OAT-based coolants (common in GM, some Fords), Phosphate-Hybrid OAT (often Honda, Toyota), and Silicate-Hybrid OAT (many Fords, Chrysler, and European specs). The critical takeaway? Your modern vehicle’s cooling system is designed for a specific type of coolant chemistry. Using the wrong one, like pouring an Asian-specific formula into a European car, or vice-versa—can lead to inadequate protection or harmful deposits. It’s not just about color; it’s about the recipe. Symptoms to Watch For: Your Coolant’s Cry for Help In the San Angelo heat, your cooling system works overtime. Stay vigilant for: Discolored Coolant: It should be bright and clear (green, orange, yellow, red, blue). If it’s murky brown, rusty, or has an oily sheen, the inhibitors are exhausted or contamination is present. Visible Sediment or Scale: Grit in the radiator neck or reservoir is a major red flag. Overheating: Often the final act of a system hampered by internal scale or clogged passages. Frequent Low Coolant Levels: (With no visible external leak) Could point to internal corrosion eating away at gaskets or components. Why This Demands a Shop That Evolved with the Science (Like Ours) You can’t properly service a 2020s computer-on-wheels with 1990s knowledge. Coolant service is no longer a “drain and fill.” It requires: 1. Knowledge of the precise OEM specification for your make, model, and year. 2. The Right Tools & Chemistry: We use the same professional-grade diagnostic tools, flush equipment, and approved chemicals the dealerships do. 3. Expertise to correctly diagnose if corrosion has already begun its silent work. At Ric Henry's Auto Service in San Angelo, we’ve evolved right alongside these fluid technologies. Our experienced technicians don’t just change coolant; we perform a comprehensive cooling system service: inspection, testing, correct fluid selection, and a proper exchange. We handle everything from minor fixes to major overhauls, backing all our work with a strong 3-year/36,000-mile warranty for your peace of mind. So, trust the chemical guardians in your coolant. And when it’s time for service, trust your car to the experienced hands at Ric Henry’s Auto Service. After all, in the battle against West Texas heat and metallic decay, you want a pit crew that speaks fluent chemistry.
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