How to Jump Your Dead Battery Like a Pro
NaTasha Brand • July 8, 2025
(And What to Do When It’s on Its Last Legs)

There’s nothing quite like the heart-sinking moment when you turn the key (or push the button) and your car responds with… nothing. Maybe a sad little click. Maybe just silence. Either way, your battery has officially ghosted you, and now you’re stranded in the San Angelo heat wondering if this is karma for skipping that oil change last month.
Fear not! Jump-starting a dead battery is a rite of passage for car owners, and doing it right can mean the difference between a quick fix and a tow truck ride. Here’s how to do it like a pro—plus what to do if your battery keeps pulling this stunt.
Step 1: Find a Good Samaritan (or a Jumper Pack)
First, you’ll need a working vehicle or a portable jump starter. If you’re in a San Angelo parking lot, flag down a fellow driver (preferably someone who doesn’t look like they’re in a Mad Max sequel). If you’re smart, you’ve already got a jump pack in your trunk—because Texas heat murders batteries faster than a rattlesnake in a bad mood.
Step 2: Park ‘Em Close, But Not Too Close
Position the working car close enough for the jumper cables to reach, but not so close that you reenact a Fast & Furious bumper kiss. Both cars should be off before you start connecting anything—unless you enjoy sparks and regret.
Step 3: The Sacred Order of Cable Connection
This is where most people mess up. Follow this sequence like it’s gospel:
1. Red to Dead – Attach the red (positive) clamp to the dead battery’s positive terminal.
2. Red to Live – Attach the other red clamp to the good battery’s positive terminal.
3. Black to Live – Attach the black (negative) clamp to the good battery’s negative terminal.
4. Black to Metal – Attach the last black clamp to an unpainted metal surface on the dead car (like a bolt or bracket). This grounds the circuit and reduces spark risk.
Why this order? Because electricity is dramatic and likes to arc if you give it the chance. This method keeps things safe(ish).
Step 4: Fire It Up (Literally, But Hopefully Not)
Start the working car and let it run for a few minutes to feed some juice to your dead battery. Then, try starting your car. If it cranks to life, hallelujah! If not, wiggle the clamps and give it another minute. Still nothing? Your battery might be beyond saving.
Step 5: The Post-Jump Protocol
Once your car starts, don’t just peel out like you robbed a bank. Keep it running for at least 15-20 minutes to recharge the battery. If you shut it off too soon, you might be right back where you started.
Is Your Battery on Life Support?
If your battery dies more often than a cowboy’s phone at a rodeo, it’s probably time for a replacement. Signs your battery is on its last legs:
• Slow cranking (like your engine is running on 3 hours of sleep)
• Needing frequent jumps
• Swollen or leaking battery case (this is bad—replace it now)
• Your headlights dimming like a bad horror movie
If any of these sound familiar, swing by Ric Henry’s Auto Service in San Angelo. Our expert techs will test your battery (and your charging system, because sometimes the alternator is the real villain). Plus, we use dealership-grade tools and back all our work with a 3-year/36,000-mile warranty—because we believe in fixing things right the first time.
A dead battery is annoying, but it’s not the end of the world (unless you’re stranded in July with no AC—then it feels like the end of the world). Stay prepared, know the steps, and when in doubt, let the pros at Ric Henry’s Auto Service handle it. Because let’s be real—you’ve got better things to do than play amateur electrician in 100-degree heat.


You're sitting at a red light in San Angelo, the AC is battling the West Texas heat, and you hear it: a persistent, rapid tick-tick-tick-tick coming from under the hood. It’s not loud enough to be a knock, but it’s too rhythmic to ignore. Welcome to the world of "lifter tick," one of the most common, and often misunderstood, engine noises. Before you panic and imagine your car’s engine scattering itself across US-87, take a deep breath. At Ric Henry's Auto Service, we’ve diagnosed countless cases of lifter tick. Sometimes it’s a simple fix; other times, it’s a warning sign of a more serious issue. Let’s pop the hood and demystify this annoying clickety-clack. What Do Lifters Do, Anyway? To understand the tick, you need to know the lifter's job. Think of your engine’s valvetrain as a complex puppet show. The camshaft is the puppeteer, and it uses lifters (also called tappets) as its hands to control the valves. The valves are the gates that let air and fuel in and exhaust out of the engine's cylinders. The lifters are the critical middlemen that sit between the camshaft and the valves. They translate the rotating motion of the camshaft into the up-and-down motion that opens and closes the valves with precise timing. In modern vehicles, you often have hydraulic lifters. These are clever, self-admitting devices filled with oil. The oil pressure inside them automatically takes up the slack between the camshaft and the valve, ensuring everything operates smoothly and quietly, even as components heat up and expand. So, What is Lifter Tick? Lifter tick is the sound of that precision system failing to operate silently. It occurs when there’s excess clearance between the lifter and the valve—a gap that shouldn't be there. The most common cause is when a hydraulic lifter fails to pressurize properly with oil. Instead of a smooth, cushioned push, you get a tiny, metallic "slap" each time the camshaft lobe hits the lifter. That "slap" is the ticking sound you hear, and it happens thousands of times per minute. Should You Be Concerned? Symptoms and Severity The big question: is this a "get it fixed now" problem or an "I'll get to it eventually" issue? The answer depends on the symptoms. The "Maybe Not an Emergency" Tick: The Sound: A light, consistent tick that is most audible at idle and may quiet down or disappear as you increase engine RPM. The Cause: Often low oil level, old/thin oil, or a single lifter "sticking" slightly. The San Angelo heat can thin out oil over time, exacerbating this. The "You Should Be Concerned" Tick: The Sound: A loud, persistent ticking that doesn't go away, gets louder with acceleration, or is accompanied by a loss of engine power. The Symptoms: Loss of Power & Poor Fuel Economy: A collapsed lifter isn't opening a valve fully, robbing that cylinder of power. Check Engine Light: The engine's computer detects misfires or inefficiency. Engine Misfire: You may feel the engine shuddering or stumbling, especially at idle. Metallic Debris in Oil: In a worst-case scenario, a failing lifter can begin to disintegrate, sending metal shavings throughout your engine's oil system. Ignoring a serious tick can lead to a domino effect of damage. A lifter that isn't opening a valve properly can cause that valve to overheat. That worn lifter can also score the camshaft lobe. What starts as a few hundred-dollar repair can quickly escalate into a multi-thousand-dollar valvetrain overhaul or even engine damage. Why a Professional Diagnosis is Non-Negotiable You might be tempted to try a "mechanic in a can" oil additive. While sometimes effective for a mild, sticky lifter, these are merely masking agents, not a cure. Diagnosing the exact cause requires a professional ear and professional tools. Accurate Diagnosis: Is it a lifter? A cracked exhaust manifold? A failing timing chain tensioner? These can sound similar to an untrained ear. Our technicians at Ric Henry's Auto Service use the same advanced tools and equipment that dealerships use, like mechanical stethoscopes and borescopes, to pinpoint the exact source of the noise. The Right Repair: Replacing lifters is a complex, labor-intensive job that often requires removing the cylinder heads. It demands precision, proper torque specs, and the right parts. The Ric Henry's Warranty: When we repair your engine's valvetrain, you don't just get peace and quiet—you get peace of mind. Every repair is backed by our 3-year/36,000-mile nationwide warranty. Don't just listen to the tick. Understand it. A timely diagnosis is the difference between a simple service and a catastrophic repair bill. Bring your ticking engine to Ric Henry's Auto Service. Let our experts quiet things down. After all, the only thing that should be ticking in San Angelo is the clock on the wall, not the engine in your car.
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